April 2009 What is Bakelite? and other Vintage Plastics...

This month, we're going to take a look at Bakelite and Catalin and a peek at Lucite, too. 

What is the difference?  Bakelite is basically a thermoset plastic which means that it has additives in it (polymers) that prevent it from being melted and reformed/recycled into another item.  Thermoplastic, on the other hand, can be heated and reformed into something else.  That is a really elementary explanation.  If you want more, poke around on the internet -- there is lots of technical information out there about this.

Bakelite is actually the trade name for a pressure molded thermoset plastic made by the Bakelite, Fiberloid or one of several other smaller companies. The raw materials are phenol and formaldehyde. Bakelite is opaque, usually brown or black and often painted. The glossy finish on non painted Bakelite is a product of the heat and high pressure used during the molding process and can be damaged when cleaned with alkali & ammonia cleaners. It is impossible to restore the original gloss to Bakelite once this finish is destroyed. One reason for this is the fillers used; which were usually fiberglass, sawdust or asbestos. These are just under the surface finish and when the finish is gone, these fuzzy particles make the finish dull.

Catalin is  the trade name for cast thermoset plastic made by the Catalin, Bakelite or Marblette corp. These plastics come in a wide variety of colors and when polished and shined "Catalin" have a gem like quality. Remember the old radios that had brilliant rich translucent colors?  That is Catalin.

Catalin is a very hard plastic, it does not easily melt or burn and is almost always translucent. Jewelry made of this type of plastic is often mistakenly referred to as Bakelite. Often when you find a radio or something made of "Catalin" the apparent color will be different than when originally manufactured. The color transformation takes place over a period of time and some colors are more prone to change than others. Red seems to be the most stable. Originally the yellow hues were "Alabaster", a white color that when well marbled, resembles a piece of marble. Some of the blue colors will appear green or even brown if heavily oxidized. Often it takes the work of an expert to restore a beautiful piece of Catalin to it's original color. The Alabaster color however will revert back to it's yellow color fairly quickly. That's why you'll often see Bakelite pieces that have a yellowish cast.

The raw materials (phenol & formaldehyde) are the same as used in "Bakelite" except there are no fibrous fillers in Catalin.

So, then, where does Lucite fit in this mix?  Lucite is a transparent thermoplastic (there's that word again) acrylic resin.  Lucite was introduced by Dupont in 1937 and began being used in jewelry by 1940, as it was found to be more cost effective than Bakelite.  Most popular and recognizable is the "moonglow" lucite used in "jelly belly" jewelry that is so collectible today.  Lucite comes in many colors and styles, including wonderful jewel tones.  It has the clarity of glass and has a heavier feel than other vintage plastics, such as Bakelite and Catalin.

Celluloid:  I feel compelled to say a few words about this, the FIRST thermoset plastic!  It was created in 1856, then named celluloid in 1870.  It was easily carved and generally considered a replacement for ivory.  It contains nitrocellulose and camphor; it is flammable and decomposes easily.  It is not widely used today (except they still make table tennis balls and guitar picks from it!)  It is rare to find celluloid jewelry in pristine condition; they tend to begin to break down chemically. 

So there you have it:  a very basic primer on Bakelite, Catalin and Lucite and a word about Celluloid.

Read on for a bit of history about our Designer of the Month:

Eisenberg

There is much to say about this fine designer, one of my personal favorites, but I will try to be concise.  Eisenberg is considered one of the premier makers of costume jewelry, and is a favorite among many collectors. Their pieces are exceptional in quality, both in design and materials. Typical prices range from a couple hundred dollars to a thousand dollars for a single piece.  The superior workmanship of Eisenberg jewelry stands the test of time and holds up well, barely showing signs of age.

The original company, Eisenberg & Sons was formed in 1914 and sold perfume and clothing.  The dresses they sold weren't doing so well, so they had the idea of adding accessories, such as brooches and pins of glittery rhinestones.  Soon, customers were clamoring for the jewelry, not the dresses!  Eisenberg Jewelry, Inc. was officially established in 1940.  Dresses were no longer designed after 1958.

Eisenberg used only the highest quality of metals, plating, and brilliant Swarovski Austrian crystal rhinestones in the construction of their pieces that portrayed bold designs. Rhinestones, imported from Czechoslovakia and Austria were used specifically to add glitter and color to each piece. Mainly, Swarovski rhinestones were selected in white as well as in a small variety of colors.

Rhodium plate metal in a variety of colors was a popular material for the company to use in their pieces. The colors were coordinated with the colors of the rhinestones that were also included in the design. Favorite colors of the rhodium metals included rose, gold, silver, and copper.

Eisenberg designs included a wide variety of jewelry styles including fur clips, dress clips, clip earrings, double clips, screw back earrings, pins with safety chains, bracelets, choker necklaces, brooches, and circle brooches. Circle brooch and earring sets were quite popular as were earring and necklace sets. In the 1970s, enamel clip earrings with several coats of enamel were quite popular. Bow and flower sprays, cascading rhinestone displays, and flowers were some of the more popular patterns. Twin pins were frequently manufactured during the 1970s and the early 1980s.

The Eisenberg Company used quite a variety of marks over the years. Each of these marks can be used to help identify the dates of each piece. From 1938 to 1942, the words, Eisenberg Original were used.

During the war years of 1943 and 1944, it was Eisenberg Original Sterling. In the latter half of 1944 and up to the year 1948, the words Eisenberg Sterling were used as the mark. However, for some reason, many pieces were simply marked with the letter E during the late 1940s and into the early fifties.

From 1949 until 1958, the jewelry was marked with the words Eisenberg Ice in block letters. The copyright symbol was used after 1955. Unfortunately, most of the pieces that were manufactured between the years 1958 and 1970 were not marked in any way. In 1970, the company began to mark their pieces once again. The words Eisenberg Ice were used in script letters. In 1977, the company switched hands. Production continued into the early 1990s. Many of the later pieces were not marked with the company’s name, but rather, included a removable hanging tag for identification. Eisenberg ice is currently being manufactured. 

Vintage Eisenberg Jewelry is highly collectible, however one should be on the lookout for fakes, especially with the names Eisenberg Ice.  There are many imposters out there.  It might take a skilled collector to determine the difference between a genuine Eisenberg piece and a fake, so proceed with caution, do your research and if possible, get the opinion of a knowledgeable collector.

Sadly, I only have one Eisenberg piece at the moment.  This stunning pendant and necklace is from after 1955, as it has the copyright symbol.  It is also signed simply with the "E" mark.  I have a brooch in the style of Eisenberg, meaning that it is not signed, but has the look and quality of Eisenberg jewelry.  It does not mean that it IS an unsigned Eisenberg, but it is possible.  As always, keeping my eyes peeled for more treasures from this wonderful designer.

Enjoy the rest of your month, now that Tax Season is over and Mother's Day and Summer are just around the corner!

xoxo,

Karen

Comments

[tungsten ring]

I like the moonglow it looks so very elegant,ummmm nice collection.

by: rhianne