Rhinestones are pieces of faceted glass, usually foil-backed in order to reflect light. (There are, however, some designers who used colored rhinestones without foil backing in order to allow the light to shine through their designs.) The original rhinestones were pebbles of rock crystal from the Rhine River (Austria's western boundary). Hence, the name: Rhine Stones. Here are some beautiful vintage clear rhinestone chandelier earrings
Here is a little history for you:
In 1775 a French jeweler named George Frederic Stras had an idea to coat the lower side of glass with metal powder (like the foil we see today.) The resulting quality closely imitated diamonds. They still were not real affordable because the stones were individually handcrafted.
In 1892 Daniel Swarovski, son of a Bohemian gem cutter, applied for a patent on his first invention: a machine that cuts crystal jewelry stones with unprecedented precision.
1895 Swarovski moved to Austria, where his invention could be powered by water, to set up a factory specializing in the production of cut crystal jewelry stones. Success in producing rhinestones economically without compromising the quality of the cut is achieved which meant acceptance in the jewelry industry. So you’re familiar with the term “Swarovski Crystals” or “Austrian Crystals,” right? This is where it comes from! Click here to see an example of Austrian Crystal.
In the early 1900s the Swarovski family refined methods to produce stones to a state of flawless brilliance and succeeded in producing grinding wheels for cutting crystal stones to increase production capacity.
In 1955 the Aurora Borealis rhinestone is presented; a coating is applied to crystal stones to produce a rainbow of colors reminiscent of the Northern Lights – hence the name Aurora Borealis. You might also see these referred to as AB rhinestones or iridized rhinestones. A note of caution: Be very, very careful with AB rhinestones, as they scratch easily. We’ll get more into this when I write a newsletter about cleaning your vintage jewelry (soon!) This is a beautiful example of AB rhinestones:
Some are not so deeply colored, but more subtle, like this:
And finally, what the heck is Paste?
Paste is glass, used in jewelry to imitate the effect of diamonds. Sometimes the terms "paste" and "rhinestones" are used interchangeably. The glass used for paste, however, has a high content of lead oxide added to it. This makes the glass more refractive, meaning that it ‘sparkles’ more. However, the higher lead content also makes the glass softer, so it scratches easily. Click here to see an old piece of jewelry from the 1930s that might be considered paste.
Paste is generally associated with jewelry made before the 1950s, but that could be inaccurate. It is probably fair to say that 1920s - 1940s jewelry is where you’ll see the most paste being used. Paste is sometimes mistaken for marcasite, but that’s another newsletter.
Designer of the Month: Les Bernard
I love Les Bernard's jewelry. I'm sad though because I only have one piece of his! This charming little road runner pin:
Les Bernard jewelry is perfect for the newer collector because the company has only been closed a few years (1996), so a lot of the jewelry out there is newer and in very good to excellent condition -- and prices have not yet risen to the levels that they might as time goes on.
Les Bernard jewelry company was founded in 1963 by Bernard Shapiro, who was the son of Harold Shapiro, who founded the Vogue Jewelry Company. The co-founder was Lester Joy -- hence the name, Les Bernard. Les Bernard jewelry is usually high quality and very well made. The pin above is typical of the quality and workmanship found in Les Bernard jewelry. The company produced many hand-knotted pearl necklaces and sets (unfortunately, while I do occasionally have some wonderful hand knotted faux pearl necklaces, none are from Les Bernard. And they don't seem to last long -- people snap them right up!)
Thanks again for taking the time to read my newsletter, for being a
customer and friend. Wishing you a glorious beginning of Fall -- and a Happy Halloween!
xoxo,
Karen